Saul's shoulder , not to be confused with swimmer's
shoulder, is a prominent spur jutting
out from the northern face of Mount Gilboa. It's probably the best place to view the
eastern Jezreel Valley.
Hang gliding enthusiasts often take to the air just below the
observation balcony. Other less venturous visitors stick to the balcony or a rocky ledge
further to the west. On a clear day you can see as far as Mt Hermon in the
north and the Gilead mountain range in Jordan. On Sunday morning a heat
haze obscured the horizon, however the valley floor was clearly visible
.Admiring the view with my guests Mike and Lisa Kraft,
we scanned the intensively cultivated valley, a picture worth a thousand
words.. I recalled a phrase I often use to describe the neatly manicured
landscape, "By no stretch of the imagination could the pioneers who came
to this valley have conjured up a vision of this patchwork of fields, fishponds
and citrus groves." What better
place could there be to show the fulfillment of biblical prophecy. Even secular Jews are moved by the
words of Isaiah. "I will make rivers flow
on barren heights, and springs within the valleys. I will turn the desert into
pools of water, and the parched ground into springs. I will put in the desert
the cedar and the acacia, the myrtle and the olive. I will set pines in the
wasteland, the fir and the cypress together." Isaiah
41:18-20 “The
wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them; and the desert shall
rejoice, and blossom as the rose……" Isaiah 35:1. At this
juncture, I pause to consider what the valley looked like when the Jewish
pioneers arrived here. At the time of his Holy Land
visit in 1867 Mark Twain wrote “Stirring scenes ... occur in the valley
[Jezreel] no more. There is not a solitary village throughout its whole
extent-not for thirty miles in either direction. There are two or three small
clusters of Bedouin tents, but not a single permanent habitation. One may ride
ten miles hereabouts and not see ten human beings.” …"Palestine sits in sackcloth and ashes....
desolate and unlovely.” Innocents Abroad.
Earlier, in 1852, the American Writer Bayard Taylor travelled
across the Jezreel Valley, which he described in his book The Lands of the Saracen; as:
"one of the richest districts in the world."
In 1887 Lawrence Oliphant wrote “Palestine's Valley of Esdraelon [Jezreel] was a huge green lake of waving
wheat, with its village-crowned mounds rising from it like islands; and it
presents one of the most striking pictures of luxuriant fertility which it is
possible to conceive." How do we reconcile these
contradictions? Mason Martin an American author who spent sixteen years as
an analyst for the CIA, was critical of attempts to use Twain's humorous
writing as a literal description of Palestine
at that time. She writes that "Twain's descriptions are high in Israeli
government press handouts that present a case for Israel's redemption of a land that
had previously been empty and barren. His gross characterizations of the land
and the people in the time before mass Jewish immigration are also often used
by US propagandists for Israel."
However, another nineteenth century visitor, English clergyman,
Biblical scholar, traveller and ornithologist, the Reverend Henry Baker Tristram. corroborated Twain’s
descriptions of dismal landscapes. .
Hilton Obenzinger author of “American Palestine: Melville, Twain, and
the Holy Land Mania,” wrote,” Fellow tourists, according to Mark Twain, had an
annoying tendency to come away from their Holy Land visits with impressions
fitted to preconceived notions, tailored to the tourist's own particular faith
or frame of reference.” Honest as these men's intentions may have been,"
Twain wrote, "they were full of partialities and prejudices, they entered
the country with their verdicts already prepared, and they could no more write
dispassionately and impartially about it than they could about their own wives
and children." Twain was bothered that tourists parroted mindlessly the
words and thoughts of this travel writer or that faith. Both Taylor and
Oliphant omitted to mention swamps and deserts. A fact finding survey conducted in 1920 for
the British High Commissioner to Palestine
echoes Mark Twain’s descriptions. Many
years ago I had the good fortune to interview the late Shlomo Rosenberg shortly before he died. Rosenberg
ploughed the first wheat field at Degania. A decade late he joined Ein Harod. He
described the dreary depressing landscapes of the Jordan
and Jezreel Valleys in the early twentieth century. Considering
these conflicting views I wonder how green was my valley before the advent of
the Jewish settlement. Believing
the Holy Land topic had by no means been
exhausted yet another American author, Lester I. Vogel wrote a survey similar
to Hilton Obenzinger’s work. In his book “To See A
Promised Land: Americans and the Holy Land in
the Nineteenth Century.” Vogel wrote, “What nineteenth-century
Americans saw in the Holy Land was not always
what they set out to see, nor do their accounts to the folks back home always
convey the images that later partisan-minded generations choose to emphasize.”
His work is a comprehensive collection of primary accounts, from missionaries,
settlers, archaeologists, adventurers, and diplomats. It shows how they shaped
popular American perceptions as the twentieth century turned the lands of the
Bible into a political battlefield.” During the
nineteenth century there were literally hundreds of popular books, pamphlets,
and articles about the Holy Land available to
American readers. Although most Americans never visited the Middle
East, they nevertheless had distinct images of what the land was
like through these writings, their churches, and their own reading of the
Bible. On the very day of his assassination in 1865, even President Lincoln
contemplated a tour of the Holy Land at the
end of his term in office. Americans who did travel to the Middle East
took with them preconceptions and brought back with them descriptions that, in
turn, helped to reshape continually the popular image of the Holy Land. Lester
I.Vogel suggests that this unique relationship between Americans and a foreign
land might be seen as an expression of "geopiety," a term coined by
the geographer John Kirtland Wright to describe a certain mixture of place,
past, and faith. Of course Americans weren’t the only people
attracted to Palestine.
A growing number of Europeans came here too during the nineteenth century.
Political developments in the region opened up the country to foreign visitors.
In addition, there were early mentions of a
Jewish State in the Holy Land. The
crumbling of the Ottoman Empire threatened the British route to India via Suez
as well as sundry French, German and American economic interests. The idea of a
Jewish state east of Suez
therefore held some appeal. In 1831 the Ottomans
were driven from Greater Syria (including Palestine)
by an expansionist Egypt,
in the First Turko-Egyptian War. Although Britain forced Muhammad Ali to
withdraw to Egypt, the Levant was left for a brief time without a government.
The ongoing weakness of the Ottoman Empire made some in the west consider the
potential of a Jewish State in the Holy Land.
A number of important figures within the British government advocated such a
plan. Again
during the lead-up to the Crimean War in 1854,
there was an opportunity for political rearrangements in the Near
East. In 1844, George Bush, a professor of Hebrew
at New York University and
the cousin of an ancestor of the Presidents Bush, published a book entitled The
Valley of Vision;
or, The Dry Bones of Israel
Revived. In
it he denounced “the thralldom and oppression which has so long ground them
(the Jews) to the dust,” and called for “elevating” the Jews “to a rank of
honorable repute among the nations of the earth” by allowing restoring the Jews
to the land of Israel where the bulk would be converted to Christianity.
The Jezreel Valley we viewed from Saul’s Shoulder on
Sunday was not a verdant sea of waving wheat. Sure, it was cultivated along its
entire length and breadth, but it wasn’t as green as it is in spring. In a corner of
one field below us the soil had a light discolouration, a tell-tale sign of the
swamp that was here before 1921.
Have a good
weekend.
Beni 25th
of October, 2012.