TURKISH DELIGHT
"We surveyed the jars of coloured candy, trays of marzipan and
assorted sweetmeats while the stall keeper deftly wrapped the block of lokum we
had just bought. The occasion was our first visit to Turkey and aided with a
rudimentary tourist map we were trying to navigate a path through Istanbul's
maze-like Grand Bazaar.
We stopped by the stall to ask for directions and decided to buy some
"Turkish Delight" to take home with us.
I recalled the tacky lokum when I read Michael Reynolds' article -
"Turkey’s foreign policy flip" posted in MESH (Middle East Strategy
at Harvard). Referring to Turkey's foreign policy volte-face Reynolds quoted a
popular Ottoman adage to illustrate the hitherto Turkish contempt for Arabs:
"There is a certain poetic irony to the Turkish dream of exporting food
throughout the Middle East via Syria. Damascus’ Ottoman-era fame for its sweets
gave rise to a Turkish saying that aptly summarised official Turkish attitudes
from the 1920s through the end of the century toward all things Arab: Ne Şam’ın
şekeri, ne Arabın yüzü, literally ‘Neither sweets from Damascus nor an Arab’s
face,” which can be roughly translated as, I don’t want to have anything to do
with the Arabs, even if they do have tasty sweets."
At this juncture, I’ll add a margin note to avoid confusion:
I vaguely recalled our first visit to Turkey in 2009 while paging
back over older posts searching for something suitable to use to describe the
present dilemma Israeli tourists are facing in Istanbul. The post I found was
aptly called “Turkish Delight”, though as I recall we experienced a
culture shock when we viewed the landscape from the top of the Galata Tower in
the Taksim neighbourhood of Istanbul. The vast expanse of
mosques spread out across the skyline was awe-inspiring. Admittedly, in 1974 we
spent a few days in Tehran en route to Australia, but that was before the era
of the Ayatollahs.
Back to the main text and the present day.
When Israelis were first advised to cancel their planned Istanbul
holidays, many tended to ignore official warnings or were afraid they would
lose their money if they cancelled their holiday bookings. While some returned
home, incoming flights brought more Israelis to Istanbul eager to tour regardless
of the danger.
Israel's National Security Council issued a severe travel warning late last month urging Israelis to avoid travelling to Turkey and several other destinations bordering Iran, fearing Iranian revenge for a number of high-profile deaths that have struck the Islamic Republic in recent weeks, which Tehran blames Israel for.
Israel’s intelligence and security agencies have made a concerted
effort to identify and locate Israelis who have chosen to ignore the warnings
against travel to Turkey. It transpires that half of them fly to Istanbul for a
connecting flight and do not leave the airport. The air terminal and its
facilities are well protected, so there is less concern for the safety of passengers
in transit. However, Israelis go to Turkey for various medical treatments,
including hair transplants and other kinds of cosmetic surgical procedures.
Since the procedures are booked and paid for in advance, they are loath to forgo
them. Consequently, they are willing to
risk life and limb for the sake of acquiring a healthy head of hair, or a pair
of perky boobs. Still, the warning has made an impact. The medical tourists may
fly to Istanbul, but they rush back to their hotel after their treatment and forgo
the opportunity to tour the city sights.
Another facet of the heightened tension in Istanbul is the game of
wits being played out between Israel and Iran. This includes the decision to
reveal the identity of the Iranian mastermind plotting the attacks: The head of
the Islamic Revolutionary Guards’ intelligence unit, Hossein Taib, a Muslim
cleric who has a long record of terrorist activity and intimidation both in
Iran and abroad.
Veteran journalist and defence analyst Yoav Limor claims Taib has
been known to security forces in Israel and the West for years. “The decision
to mark him publicly as the figure behind the current threat also puts a
bullseye on his back. It goes without saying that he will now look over his
shoulder whenever he leaves his home or sees a passing motorcycle in the
street. In an instant, he has moved from the nameless and faceless pursuer to
the pursued.”
Defence Minister Benny Gantz’s explicit warning that
Israel “is preparing to respond with force in the face of any threat to Israeli
citizens everywhere” is also aimed at making the threat personal so that Taib
and his colleagues in Tehran know that they are in the crosshairs.
Turkey’s security and intelligence authorities are worried that its
tourist industry as a whole will be adversely affected by this turn of events.
No matter how this plays out, Iran will continue to seek revenge and
Israel will continue to attack in Syria and Iran (according to foreign news
sources) There is no final volley, or check-mate in this battle of wits. Yet
some observers envisage two possible outcomes: Either the repressive Iranian
regime achieves its ultimate goal and wipes Israel off the map, or a popular
uprising in Iran ousts the current regime, Iranian Revolutionary Guards Corps (IRGC)
and all. At present both goals are no more than wishful thinking.
Have a good weekend.
Beni 24th
of June, 2022.