The “fasten your seat belt”
sign is my cue to switch to overseas holiday mode.
After touchdown in
Frankfurt we picked up our rental car and with the aid of its built-in GPS and our
own maps we reached our hotel in Strasbourg
after a brief stop-over in Heidelberg.
Israel
was out of sight and out of mind. The Arab Spring, events in Syria and Egypt were ostensibly forgotten. We
were about to tour the wine routes in Baden-Württemberg and Alsace, to enjoy
the breathtaking views from the Route des Crêtes, the northern Vosges
mountains, to see the picturesque
villages along the route des Potiers in
Alsace and more mountain scenery on the
Black Forest High Road (Schwarzwaldhochstraße). We did, however, flick a few TV
news channels in the hotel knowing that Israel was no longer newsworthy.
During the day we dedicated
to touring Strasbourg
we ignored the all-knowing GPS, took a wrong turn and ended up in Place Kléber,
the city’s largest square named in
honour of one of its most illustrious sons Jean-Baptiste Kléber. He accompanied Napoleon on
the ill-fated Egyptian campaign in 1798. Historians claim he was one of
Napoleon’s most proficient generals.
I have mentioned him before
and this time our encounter in Place Kléber momentarily linked us to Israel and the Jezreel Valley.
Commanding a small force of
1500 men Kléber was sent to reconnoitre the approaches to the rear flank of the main
French forces besieging Acco.
His scouts discovered a
25,000 strong Ottoman army en route to Acco. He devised a daring pre-dawn
attack on the Ottoman force camped in the Jezreel Valley.
He sent a courier to inform Napoleon of the threat and his preemptive attack
plan. The plan involved a descent from Nazareth
under cover of darkness, traversing Mt.
Tabor and surprising the Ottoman army before sunrise. In a sense it was
reminiscent of the biblical Gideon’s attack on the Midianite camp. Knowing that
Kléber didn’t have adequate topographical maps Napoleon feared the plan would
fail. Gathering all the men he could spare Napoleon rushed to extricate Kléber’s
force from certain defeat. In the
meantime Kléber and his men encountered difficulties traversing Mt. Tabor.
There was no surprise pre-dawn attack . The French were detected and had to
hastily form a defensive battle phalanx by the ruins of a Crusader fortress
near Moshav Merhavia, close to Afula. .Of course neither Merhavia nor Afula existed
then. Hopelessly outnumbered Kléber’s
men tried to hold their
position.
They were running out of ammunition
and were forced to divide the phalanx in two . The arrival of Napoleon’s relief
force heralded by two cannon shots encouraged Kléber’s men and panicked the
combined Muslim army. A French force
numbering 4,000 men equipped with better muskets and only two canons had routed the 25,000 strong
Ottoman army. Later Napoleon chose to call the victory the Battle of Mount
Tabor. Although the engagement took place near present day Afula, Mount Tabor
was a recognised landmark in the Christian world..
The siege of Acco was
futile. The walls of the town were impregnable and without their heavy cannons
lost earlier at the Battle of the Nile the French artillery could only manage to lob a few
light cannon shots over the walls.
The cannons were place on a
rise outside Acco, marked on all maps as Napoleon’s hill. Descendants of the
Arab residents of Acco at the time of the siege claim that Napoleon unable to
set foot inside the town placed his hat on a cannon ball and fired it over the
walls. Of course there is no substance to the story. Napoleon wore many
bicornes replete with the traditional cockade.
Some are on display in a
few museums around the world. There is no way he could have fired one of them
into Acco, just the same, next time you visit Acco ask the locals about the
bicorne. Nobody bothered to save it for posterity, but they still firmly
believe the hat trick really happened.
Another hat trick made
headlines this week. Al Jazeera published a report of laboratory tests
conducted in Switzerland
on items of clothing worn by former Palestinian Authority chairman Yasser
Arafat. According to Al Jazeera the clothing including his fur hat
provided by his widow ( presumably uncontaminated) was found to contain traces
of Polonium 210. Conspiracy tales about the circumstances of Arafat’s death
have cropped up over the past eight
years since his death. Now the widow has suddenly come forward with the crucial
evidence and a clear accusation that Israel poisoned her husband..
Mrs. Arafat has agreed to
have Chairman Arafat’s body exhumed for analysis.
She is sure his bones still
contain traces of Polonium.
Several years ago
construction work on an industrial site near Acco was impeded by a small burial
plot containing four graves. The plot was very old and the graves appeared to
be Muslim graves. However, archeologists from the Israeli antiquities
department sent to investigate the site suspected that graves weren’t authentic.
On examination one grave contained a skeleton with a missing leg and arm. The
discovery provided the answer to the mystery of the last resting place of Louis-Marie-Joseph-Maximilian Caffarelli du
Falga a French officer who served under Jean-Baptiste Kléber. Caffarelli lost
his leg in an earlier battle but continued in the army and joined Kléber in the
Egyptian campaign. At one of the assaults on Acco a musket ball shattered his
right arm and the army surgeon had to amputate it. The wound was infected and
gangrene set in. A few days later he died. Knowing that the Arabs were inclined
to desecrate French military graves, Cafferelli and three other French soldiers
were interred with Muslim style headstones.
The Israeli government
traced descendents of the hapless Cafferelli and they were brought to a
ceremony commemorating the death of their long dead ancestor.
Jean-Baptiste Kléber
returned to Egypt with
Napoleon and was appointed commander of the French forces in Egypt when Napoleon returned to France in 1800.
Kléber went on to suppress an uprising in Egypt
and to recapture Cairo.
A few days after returning to Cairo
a Syrian assassin stabbed him to death. His body was embalmed and returned to Strasbourg for burial.
The assassin suffered the
full fury of the French military court. His hand, the hand that stabbed Kléber
was incinerated and later he was impaled and left to die in agony.
We arrived
home to discover that an old-new crisis was threatening Netanyahu’s broad
coalition government. Many secular Israelis see the strength of Netanyahu’s
coalition as a historic opportunity to change the long-standing agreement with
the ultra-Orthodox ( Haredi) sector and devise
a way to share the national security burden with some kind of agreement where
they can be enlisted in the Army or some other form of non-military national
service. Netanyahu himself appointed a committee to try to resolve the thorny
issue – only to dissolve it on Monday of this week – days before it was due to
release its findings. The move sent political shockwaves through the Knesset. For
the past month, Kadima party member Yohanan Plesner has taken on the role of
trying to create a new groundbreaking structure that would fairly share the
defence burden. Plesner’s defunct
committee sought a way to enlist the
ultra-religious, as well as Arab-Israelis.
Once again
Prime Minister Netanyahu has chosen to appease the Haredi parties in the
Knesset. Unless he finds a compromise he is liable to lose his new coalition
partner –Kadima.
My guess is
that he will prefer the men in the black hats.
Have a good weekend.
Beni
6th
of July, 2012.
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